3/15/09 Rock is snoozing and Dave and I take off to town. I have not been able to get a wifi signal, and need to let everyone know we have arrived. Tried to get internet through the marina last night, but was unsuccessful, despite help from the bar manager, sans english, and that El Presidente. Turns out they haven't had enough power to charge thier modems and equipment, but assured me it would be soon. Not soon enough for Marilyn, she needs to know today!
The dinghy motor is not having a good day, but it gets us there after we tour some of the boats in the harbor. There are several uniformed officials milling about the gate at the end of the dock. We find out they are poorly paid, and their primary source of income is collecting fees and tips.
OMG, there are goats and cows wandering around, not to mention chickens, ducks and a plethora of dogs. The streets are lined with brightly painted huts or shacks, no glass in the windows, doors open, people everywhere,kids playing in the street and sidewalks, music . Everyone is clean and dressed, no one looks hungry or obese, no not even the dogs...Some of the huts have vending areas at the front with sad fruits and veggies, most have someone leaning out the windows, we pass a hot dominoes game, and begin Dave's quest to photograph all the dogs he can. They are amazing, they are all different(in a cur dog kinda way) and are curled up sleeping wandering, and we make eye contact with one who guides us around town. They, like the people don't seem to be bothered by each other or anything else, most trot as if on a mission. I must remember to bring biscuits next time, and definitely won't be bringing Max and Alma to town. We arrive at Capt. Steve's , a restaurant that advertises free internet, showers, and a swimming pool. We have a El Presidente and I get to work emailing. Its very slow, something I am learning to live with. We order lunch and split Dave's fix: fried chicken, rice and beans and salad. Yum. Capt Steve does everything from selling meals, fresh fruits and veggies,eggs, beer, liquor(delivered to your dinghy), does laundry, arranges transportation, you name it. His wife and children wait on us, its cool and breezy, and inexpensivo. We watch the street traffic(mostly foot and motorconcho) and see our dog friend happily stretched out under someones table, that traitor!
More walking, the firehouse, park, statue of General Luperon, more dogs...lots of motorconchos buzzing around. Beautiful plants and amazing bougainvillea that are like giant shrubs with huge neon blooms, banana trees, and tons of clean laundry carefully draped on every piece of barbed wire and cactus along the way. We pass two men cooking a pig on a wooden spit, they indicate we should come back for some. Everyone smiles, and a greeting is always expected. Holaholahola. Although the poverty is pronounced, there are not many exceptions...it is the way of life here. Everyone seems happy, Dave thinks everyone may have had an El Presidente, but there are no drunken scuffles, you hear no angry words. I do not feel like an Ugly American Tourist here, but I know I am a gringo!
Tuesday, March 31, 2009
checking in 3/14/09
So much for a current flow of experience, I try hard to give you accounts with little to no reflections added.
3/14/09 9 am : our first visitors arrive, 5 young men , by boat. One has a uniform, with name tag Padillo, and we assume this is the Comandancia . They take seats, introduce themselves, we all catch little. I remember reading to offer something to drink and pull out several cans of coke, "no frio!" and grin.They grin back and decline, a warm coke is not what they want. A "gift" is more suitable so says Handy Andy and Papo, the guys that will deliver anything to your boat. They ask for a piece of paper and a pen, write the name of the boat down(all with quizzical looks) I am flapping my arms and via charades we get to cuervo or crow. I am relieved. They stare and mention gift again. I panic, how much is enough...and for 5 guys whos capacity is not clear...so they all get 2$ each, seem unoffended and leave. I should have offered a piece of fudge, which my friend sent us off with, to the tune of 10 pounds...so far only some of it has become one with my hips. The rest is in the freezer and will be carefully parcelled out.
Rock and Dave dispatch the Dinghy, our own personal Short Bus...painted bright yellow by Rock, oars and all. Previous to us, it was called Mr. Bill and proved that Boston Whalers don't sink, but thats someone elses tale....They are off to the governmental dock to properly check in.
I am busy getting things in their places, don't dare take the dogs for a walk without clearance, although this is later found to not be necessary. Our new neighbors consist of two sailboats , a quasi Florida trawler (all with liveaboards),and two small power boats on the other side of the dock from us, a ratty trawler at the end of the dock, the Kontiki tied along the dock facing us...a two story rust bucket that looks like its seen its last tours , and a partially submerged boat that several marina boys are pumping away at. There are some sailboats tied on the Kontiki dock against the mangroves that look abandoned. Its not the yacht clubs of the US, but its wonderful to have so few neighbors. The harbor has many more boats than we expected, maybe 50-60. I am anxious to climb the mountain of steps to the yacht club and check it out. The boys return having paid the fees, and had a brief walk around town(high-stepping I am sure) and their first El Presidente beer, those rats! The Agriculture officials are due to drive here, and before long a man and woman arrive, ask for a piece of paper and pen and then want to know if we have international garbage, we must bring it to the government dock to dispose of it. We agree to, but I know I will not be dinghying garbage across the harbor when I see the can at the end of the dock. I am proud that we have only one bag of trash in the stern garbage can. Next is what perishables and dairy we have . I point at whats left in the basket on the counter, afew onions and shallots, two potatoes and a lemon and limes. I show a half gallon of milk and deny the pounds of cheese in the other cooler. The man shrugs. Then out comes a form book with carbon paper and they ask for papers on the dogs. We are all staring at the carbon paper that requires the constant adjustment by both of them. So thats what happened to carbon paper! They spend a great deal of time working with the paperwork. I have copied tons of paperwork (vet records, rabies certificates, rabies titers, vaccine records, a letter from the vet, a USgovernment vet certificate...)and have worried needlessly. Snow them with paperwork, at one point the woman smiles at the rabies form, they confer before she writes the number down and then everything is stamped several times, and they ask for 20$ , get 24 and leave smiling. phew, glad thats over.
Now what about me getting an El Presidente?
3/14/09 9 am : our first visitors arrive, 5 young men , by boat. One has a uniform, with name tag Padillo, and we assume this is the Comandancia . They take seats, introduce themselves, we all catch little. I remember reading to offer something to drink and pull out several cans of coke, "no frio!" and grin.They grin back and decline, a warm coke is not what they want. A "gift" is more suitable so says Handy Andy and Papo, the guys that will deliver anything to your boat. They ask for a piece of paper and a pen, write the name of the boat down(all with quizzical looks) I am flapping my arms and via charades we get to cuervo or crow. I am relieved. They stare and mention gift again. I panic, how much is enough...and for 5 guys whos capacity is not clear...so they all get 2$ each, seem unoffended and leave. I should have offered a piece of fudge, which my friend sent us off with, to the tune of 10 pounds...so far only some of it has become one with my hips. The rest is in the freezer and will be carefully parcelled out.
Rock and Dave dispatch the Dinghy, our own personal Short Bus...painted bright yellow by Rock, oars and all. Previous to us, it was called Mr. Bill and proved that Boston Whalers don't sink, but thats someone elses tale....They are off to the governmental dock to properly check in.
I am busy getting things in their places, don't dare take the dogs for a walk without clearance, although this is later found to not be necessary. Our new neighbors consist of two sailboats , a quasi Florida trawler (all with liveaboards),and two small power boats on the other side of the dock from us, a ratty trawler at the end of the dock, the Kontiki tied along the dock facing us...a two story rust bucket that looks like its seen its last tours , and a partially submerged boat that several marina boys are pumping away at. There are some sailboats tied on the Kontiki dock against the mangroves that look abandoned. Its not the yacht clubs of the US, but its wonderful to have so few neighbors. The harbor has many more boats than we expected, maybe 50-60. I am anxious to climb the mountain of steps to the yacht club and check it out. The boys return having paid the fees, and had a brief walk around town(high-stepping I am sure) and their first El Presidente beer, those rats! The Agriculture officials are due to drive here, and before long a man and woman arrive, ask for a piece of paper and pen and then want to know if we have international garbage, we must bring it to the government dock to dispose of it. We agree to, but I know I will not be dinghying garbage across the harbor when I see the can at the end of the dock. I am proud that we have only one bag of trash in the stern garbage can. Next is what perishables and dairy we have . I point at whats left in the basket on the counter, afew onions and shallots, two potatoes and a lemon and limes. I show a half gallon of milk and deny the pounds of cheese in the other cooler. The man shrugs. Then out comes a form book with carbon paper and they ask for papers on the dogs. We are all staring at the carbon paper that requires the constant adjustment by both of them. So thats what happened to carbon paper! They spend a great deal of time working with the paperwork. I have copied tons of paperwork (vet records, rabies certificates, rabies titers, vaccine records, a letter from the vet, a USgovernment vet certificate...)and have worried needlessly. Snow them with paperwork, at one point the woman smiles at the rabies form, they confer before she writes the number down and then everything is stamped several times, and they ask for 20$ , get 24 and leave smiling. phew, glad thats over.
Now what about me getting an El Presidente?
Monday, March 23, 2009
Passage part 2
March 10, Tuesday
Attempted to get watermaker working for first time. Its brand new, but we were unable to even start it at dock in G'town due to water quality...so we all break out the book, turn it on manually, get a taste of some great water, hook it up to the tank and look forward to having plenty of drinking water aboard when we enter Luperon. The saline being pumped overboard stops, Dave and I go back to the book and the unit, cannot get it to work for more than afew minutes. The instructions are very vague, and I feel badly I did not investigate before leaving ...Luckily we have plenty of water on board, and coca cola for Dave, bad bottled ice tea for us. No one even mentions a beer or liquor, although I did sneak a beer yesterday afternoon, sipping cold beer on the stern watch the water go by, totally enjoying the clear horizon.
The dogs have finally done their business on the bow, I had pee pads all over the boat we were all tripping over, but they stayed dry. I watched Max and he ventures out on his own, more so when the engine slows, and Alma follows. I am still glad I strung netting along the stern, although Rock insists they have a better center of gravity and more contact with the deck. Well, someone has to worry.
More lamb pastitio for dinner(still no fish!)
We have passed out of the Sargasso Sea, still in The Triangle, and actually about 250 miles due East of Cape Canaveral. Not far from the Bahamas. Nothing in sight, calm seas, and no ships on radar. Dave and Rock pull in the outriggers, although they do not seem to decrease our speed as much as we thought, maybe a half knot. Course remains unchanged at 146 degrees/East,Southeast on a straight line to the Turks & Caicos, which we plan to round with a short southwest passage to Luperon.
Bad news for our tiny amazing passenger Sparrow, Dave found him dead on the flybridge...it was too sad it had found the perfect refuge to get to land, eventually....
March 11 Wednesday
3 am awakened by a can of artichokes bouncing down the steps...Rock is hunting the bag of tiny heath bars in the pantry and has caused a total imbalance in the pyramids of cans. I am up for my watch, shower, and duck tape the pantry shut(damnit) The wind is around 11 knots and rising and we begin to get more pronounced rolls. Tried to make a cup of tea, gave up. Want to put the outriggers back out, will wait for first light and muscle.We are 70 +/- miles from San Salvador and Dave has us positioned to arrive at the pass around the Turks & Caicos by Friday 2 am.It will then be a days trip to Luperon, with the wind.
The roll increases, the dogs skuttle around the salon like nervous pancakes. At first light we put out the outriggers, which help alittle, but we are in a very beam sea. Dave wants breakfast, and is unhappy I am not cooking, asks for souse meat...that did it for Rock who was quietly working on not being seasick....Poor Dave got an english muffin, cereal and a yogurt(no Yankees were mentioned but I am sure he though it.) Rock is sleeping or in a coma on the settee, Dave is in the pilot house, I am hearing noises again, more banging and clanging. Off we go to investigate, on the flybridge the board with cleats holding all the lines to the port outrigger, flag halliards etc... is flying around the flybridge wheeee! Grabbed the long boat hook and Dave was able to snag the loose lines to outrigger, all lines resecured, and we are back in the salon in a flash like it was nothing. I am amazed at what we do together. The dogs are especially clingy with the new added motion, Max decides to puke again for good measure. Rock is paler than pale with the dry heaves. Maybe his scopolamine patch as worn off.
I struggle to heat up white bean and chicken chili, the microwave has become a salad spinner of all I put into it. I dare not try a pot and lid. Dave and I eat in silence, Rock comes to for his watch like clockwork looking like a ghoul.
March 12, Thursday
Happy Birthday Matty and Adam!! You are having a better day, where ever you are and whatever you are doing!
Wind above 20 knots, the seas continue to beat us as we motor along right on course.
Dave suffers silently with english muffins for breakfast, happily eats Rock's. Rock is not starting out well today, continues to be seasick. I am down for my nap with the dogs panting away beside me when the engine dies ....oh such a bad sound after I felt my head would explode with the sound of the engine coming from all directions, silencing all the sea, wind and rock and roll noises.....Dave had been changing/cleaning the racor filter, and the fuel stopped to the engine. Rock too sick to tolerate the sauna, I go with Dave and watch as he repeats all the steps in bleeding the injectors and cussing the fuel delivery system. Still cannot figure out why the second filter does not take over, but the many valves and ports some labeled, most not, leave alot of room for leaving a line open or closed....but like magic, the Gardner starts back with a rumble and we are back to the rock and roll of the evil beam seas.
Dave changes course to cut through the pass between Mayaguana and Provo, hoping to decrease the seas, worries it will add time to our travels. Some change in motion, although we continue to roll. Sandwiches for lunch, without Rock's famous touch, Dave and I put lines out as we pass weedlines that have to be feeding those schools of fish I cannot catch or see. Rock is back to bed, no better.
Still not interested in cooking or food, make Dave a baked potato( at last some 'normal' food!) and a cup of chili, Rock declines to dine.
I try for a nap at dark, after watching for the lights of Provo, the incredible full moon, stars...and now the noise of the boat is so loud I cannot be still. Its in my head, and outside my head at the same crashing decibel. I am more than just restless, pillows over my head. I go to Dave, and tell him somethings wrong, but I do not know what. He rolls his eyes and checks the engine room like a sweet frustrated babysitter. Nothing amiss ...I join Rock and try to sleep but can't. An alarm I do not know goes off, I am in the salon, and Dave is searching for the source. We hear it strongest at the forward stairs, and then the aha! moment , its the Carbon Monoxide alarm. We reset it, and Dave looks at me like I am crazy, why do I have a carbon monoxide alarm when diesel engines do not produce it. Well, I had lost my mind and blubbered I couldn't remember but I did it for a reason. He shakes his head, I slink back to bed. The alarm goes off again, and this time Dave looks under his bunk, and finds the house batteries burbling over, and giving off, yes, carbon monoxide! Aha! Turns out the alternator had been progressively overcharging them, and Dave then admits to hearing the alarm give off an occasional beep, and oh by the way, maybe thats why I've had this headache..... So he aired out his bunk, stayed in the salon, and me and my women's intuition went back to bed and slept. Nothing like a happy ending to another of our almost daily events.
March 13, Friday
No one will comment on the day, but we are on course, passing land in the distance, slowing up a tad as we do not want to enter Luperon until it is light. It is an unevenful day as we get closer to our destination, the seas continue to be rough. Rock is feeling better, and it is PB&J for all, and it tastes great. We are all up in the salon/pilot house doors open and by 2:30 am Saturday morning we are idling along the north coast of the Dominican Republic. It is a long wait for daylight.
March 14, Saturday
6:30 am we are anxious to start our navigation of the channel into Bahia Luperon. The steep cliffs of the north coast look ominous, we watch the waves crash, blow holes popping up here and there. We are on the flybridge to pull in the outriggers and there is no fish on the port side. No one is sure when or where it escaped, but outriggers came up easily on this day. We have the chart and a great description and chartlet from Passages South, thank you Bruce, and we find out way right into the harbor with Rock's perfect piloting. We have agreed to see if we can get dock space at one of the two marinas as we can drop the anchor, but pulling it in with out the windlass...and then with our batteries unable to take a full load, well I did the girl thing and begged for a dock, but who knew what was available. We were on the radio to the Luperon Yacht Club, and then we ran aground right slap in the center of the harbor. Rock backed us off and our savior Lynn, from Shaggy's came over in her dinghy and guided us to the only spot available and said we would just call this an emergency landing....we attempted to pull in to the dock, but at dead low tide remained off , grounded, with our kind future neighbors catching our line while we waited for the tide. What we didn't know was we had a tremendous port list, and looked quite the emergency coming in limping. We didn't see it or notice it until we were docked. Poor Magpie, all that sympathy when we simply couldn't get the fuel transfer pump to even your tanks out. But that project was another day. Saturday came with Dave and Rock warping us over to the dock, the marina boys moving us to an outer dock, a fine breakfast was made with real bacon and eggs and toast....and showers, naps, walk the dogs and by happy hour we were all together in the marina open air restaurant overlooking the harbor, experiencing a brisk trade wind that felt marvelous and cool, viewing Magpie directly to starboard so her list was not detected, and giant El Presidente beers for all(except Max and Alma who were enjoying a still moment on the cool tile floor and introduction to the marina dogs). Following happy hour and meeting the neighbors we retreated to Magpie for grilled bison rib eyes, baked potatoes and green beans and wine. Exhausted and happy. It was a successful passage to a paradise , with enough adventure and challenge, a great friend with us, and great friends waiting to hear the tales.
Attempted to get watermaker working for first time. Its brand new, but we were unable to even start it at dock in G'town due to water quality...so we all break out the book, turn it on manually, get a taste of some great water, hook it up to the tank and look forward to having plenty of drinking water aboard when we enter Luperon. The saline being pumped overboard stops, Dave and I go back to the book and the unit, cannot get it to work for more than afew minutes. The instructions are very vague, and I feel badly I did not investigate before leaving ...Luckily we have plenty of water on board, and coca cola for Dave, bad bottled ice tea for us. No one even mentions a beer or liquor, although I did sneak a beer yesterday afternoon, sipping cold beer on the stern watch the water go by, totally enjoying the clear horizon.
The dogs have finally done their business on the bow, I had pee pads all over the boat we were all tripping over, but they stayed dry. I watched Max and he ventures out on his own, more so when the engine slows, and Alma follows. I am still glad I strung netting along the stern, although Rock insists they have a better center of gravity and more contact with the deck. Well, someone has to worry.
More lamb pastitio for dinner(still no fish!)
We have passed out of the Sargasso Sea, still in The Triangle, and actually about 250 miles due East of Cape Canaveral. Not far from the Bahamas. Nothing in sight, calm seas, and no ships on radar. Dave and Rock pull in the outriggers, although they do not seem to decrease our speed as much as we thought, maybe a half knot. Course remains unchanged at 146 degrees/East,Southeast on a straight line to the Turks & Caicos, which we plan to round with a short southwest passage to Luperon.
Bad news for our tiny amazing passenger Sparrow, Dave found him dead on the flybridge...it was too sad it had found the perfect refuge to get to land, eventually....
March 11 Wednesday
3 am awakened by a can of artichokes bouncing down the steps...Rock is hunting the bag of tiny heath bars in the pantry and has caused a total imbalance in the pyramids of cans. I am up for my watch, shower, and duck tape the pantry shut(damnit) The wind is around 11 knots and rising and we begin to get more pronounced rolls. Tried to make a cup of tea, gave up. Want to put the outriggers back out, will wait for first light and muscle.We are 70 +/- miles from San Salvador and Dave has us positioned to arrive at the pass around the Turks & Caicos by Friday 2 am.It will then be a days trip to Luperon, with the wind.
The roll increases, the dogs skuttle around the salon like nervous pancakes. At first light we put out the outriggers, which help alittle, but we are in a very beam sea. Dave wants breakfast, and is unhappy I am not cooking, asks for souse meat...that did it for Rock who was quietly working on not being seasick....Poor Dave got an english muffin, cereal and a yogurt(no Yankees were mentioned but I am sure he though it.) Rock is sleeping or in a coma on the settee, Dave is in the pilot house, I am hearing noises again, more banging and clanging. Off we go to investigate, on the flybridge the board with cleats holding all the lines to the port outrigger, flag halliards etc... is flying around the flybridge wheeee! Grabbed the long boat hook and Dave was able to snag the loose lines to outrigger, all lines resecured, and we are back in the salon in a flash like it was nothing. I am amazed at what we do together. The dogs are especially clingy with the new added motion, Max decides to puke again for good measure. Rock is paler than pale with the dry heaves. Maybe his scopolamine patch as worn off.
I struggle to heat up white bean and chicken chili, the microwave has become a salad spinner of all I put into it. I dare not try a pot and lid. Dave and I eat in silence, Rock comes to for his watch like clockwork looking like a ghoul.
March 12, Thursday
Happy Birthday Matty and Adam!! You are having a better day, where ever you are and whatever you are doing!
Wind above 20 knots, the seas continue to beat us as we motor along right on course.
Dave suffers silently with english muffins for breakfast, happily eats Rock's. Rock is not starting out well today, continues to be seasick. I am down for my nap with the dogs panting away beside me when the engine dies ....oh such a bad sound after I felt my head would explode with the sound of the engine coming from all directions, silencing all the sea, wind and rock and roll noises.....Dave had been changing/cleaning the racor filter, and the fuel stopped to the engine. Rock too sick to tolerate the sauna, I go with Dave and watch as he repeats all the steps in bleeding the injectors and cussing the fuel delivery system. Still cannot figure out why the second filter does not take over, but the many valves and ports some labeled, most not, leave alot of room for leaving a line open or closed....but like magic, the Gardner starts back with a rumble and we are back to the rock and roll of the evil beam seas.
Dave changes course to cut through the pass between Mayaguana and Provo, hoping to decrease the seas, worries it will add time to our travels. Some change in motion, although we continue to roll. Sandwiches for lunch, without Rock's famous touch, Dave and I put lines out as we pass weedlines that have to be feeding those schools of fish I cannot catch or see. Rock is back to bed, no better.
Still not interested in cooking or food, make Dave a baked potato( at last some 'normal' food!) and a cup of chili, Rock declines to dine.
I try for a nap at dark, after watching for the lights of Provo, the incredible full moon, stars...and now the noise of the boat is so loud I cannot be still. Its in my head, and outside my head at the same crashing decibel. I am more than just restless, pillows over my head. I go to Dave, and tell him somethings wrong, but I do not know what. He rolls his eyes and checks the engine room like a sweet frustrated babysitter. Nothing amiss ...I join Rock and try to sleep but can't. An alarm I do not know goes off, I am in the salon, and Dave is searching for the source. We hear it strongest at the forward stairs, and then the aha! moment , its the Carbon Monoxide alarm. We reset it, and Dave looks at me like I am crazy, why do I have a carbon monoxide alarm when diesel engines do not produce it. Well, I had lost my mind and blubbered I couldn't remember but I did it for a reason. He shakes his head, I slink back to bed. The alarm goes off again, and this time Dave looks under his bunk, and finds the house batteries burbling over, and giving off, yes, carbon monoxide! Aha! Turns out the alternator had been progressively overcharging them, and Dave then admits to hearing the alarm give off an occasional beep, and oh by the way, maybe thats why I've had this headache..... So he aired out his bunk, stayed in the salon, and me and my women's intuition went back to bed and slept. Nothing like a happy ending to another of our almost daily events.
March 13, Friday
No one will comment on the day, but we are on course, passing land in the distance, slowing up a tad as we do not want to enter Luperon until it is light. It is an unevenful day as we get closer to our destination, the seas continue to be rough. Rock is feeling better, and it is PB&J for all, and it tastes great. We are all up in the salon/pilot house doors open and by 2:30 am Saturday morning we are idling along the north coast of the Dominican Republic. It is a long wait for daylight.
March 14, Saturday
6:30 am we are anxious to start our navigation of the channel into Bahia Luperon. The steep cliffs of the north coast look ominous, we watch the waves crash, blow holes popping up here and there. We are on the flybridge to pull in the outriggers and there is no fish on the port side. No one is sure when or where it escaped, but outriggers came up easily on this day. We have the chart and a great description and chartlet from Passages South, thank you Bruce, and we find out way right into the harbor with Rock's perfect piloting. We have agreed to see if we can get dock space at one of the two marinas as we can drop the anchor, but pulling it in with out the windlass...and then with our batteries unable to take a full load, well I did the girl thing and begged for a dock, but who knew what was available. We were on the radio to the Luperon Yacht Club, and then we ran aground right slap in the center of the harbor. Rock backed us off and our savior Lynn, from Shaggy's came over in her dinghy and guided us to the only spot available and said we would just call this an emergency landing....we attempted to pull in to the dock, but at dead low tide remained off , grounded, with our kind future neighbors catching our line while we waited for the tide. What we didn't know was we had a tremendous port list, and looked quite the emergency coming in limping. We didn't see it or notice it until we were docked. Poor Magpie, all that sympathy when we simply couldn't get the fuel transfer pump to even your tanks out. But that project was another day. Saturday came with Dave and Rock warping us over to the dock, the marina boys moving us to an outer dock, a fine breakfast was made with real bacon and eggs and toast....and showers, naps, walk the dogs and by happy hour we were all together in the marina open air restaurant overlooking the harbor, experiencing a brisk trade wind that felt marvelous and cool, viewing Magpie directly to starboard so her list was not detected, and giant El Presidente beers for all(except Max and Alma who were enjoying a still moment on the cool tile floor and introduction to the marina dogs). Following happy hour and meeting the neighbors we retreated to Magpie for grilled bison rib eyes, baked potatoes and green beans and wine. Exhausted and happy. It was a successful passage to a paradise , with enough adventure and challenge, a great friend with us, and great friends waiting to hear the tales.
Passage to Luperon 3/7/09-3/14/09
I have been so captivated by this place, and factor in very slow internet service with very limited bandwidths, great local beer, meeting new people, and getting used to a very laid back lifestyle, I am remiss in keeping up with this great journey.
Here are my journal summaries of our trip from Georgetown, SC directly to Luperon, Domincan Republic.
Saturday March 7, 2009.
8:05 am
tearful goodbyes to our dear friends, I can't believe we are really leaving. Half of me wonders if we will limp back in afew hours with something needing Jamie's magic powers.
We cruise out the Sampit River uneventfully, I take afew half hearted pictures, and there as we enter Winyah Bay are friends at the very point of East Bay Park waving and taking pictures, how wonderful ! Goodbye Georgetown, I have my top ten things I love and hate about you, but thats another entry...
Its now just Rock, our close friend Dave signed on for the adventure, Max and Alma the clueless SWDs, and me aboard Magpie, 44 feet of power in motion. And motion it is as we enter the channel between jettys and on to the ocean and the groundswell that rocks us on our course due east,southeast at 146 degrees.
We dined on eggsalad sandwiches, as we pass the seabuoy, having skipped breakfast to finish tying down stuff, getting last minute things stowed.... We are joined by a parade of porpoises, and seagulls.
Last look at land, and its time for my nap. Once awake, I notice more motion, and stuff beach towels in all cabinets and the pantry shelves to keep the clatter down. Outriggers are out to decrease the motion.Max and Alma are low to the ground, like big fuzzy throw rugs scooting around the cabin. I take them on the bow with leashes, but they are happy to return to the salon, and stay flat.Max throws up, no kibble today.I am queasy, the boys are ready for dinner. I bake a 'Mrs Budds chicken pie' to rave reviews, preferring to go back below to tune out the noise of things continuing to move and settle,rock and roll.
12 midnight, I hear a terrible thumping at the stern, Rock on watch and we go out, dogs creeping low behind us. It takes a minute or two, but Rock discovers the Danforth anchor, once secured to the stern has come partially loose and is banging away, Rock out on the swim platform but cannot secure. I wake Dave, but we are unable to pull it up or get it back into its holdings and Rock lets it go. I feel sad for it, as Jamie repaired it, and I had painted it, and it just disappeared.
4am: my watch starts, and being the one who remembered daylight savings my shift is three hours instead of 4. I am less queasy, and note that there is barely a serving of Mrs Budd's left in the pan, no thanks I just ate a bar of soap. I mark a ships passage on radar, big and not many lights, the distances look less than they are and I worry needlessly. The engine room is hot,hot, hot, gauges checked, listen for odd sounds, smells...back out of the sauna.
March 8, Sunday
after 8 am:Its raisin bran, and coffee for breakfast for Dave. and Rock happily finishes off Mrs Budd's chicken pie. Hope my homemade meals come close to Mrs Budd's comfort food. I try out PB&J on saltines, not bad. I take my vitamins and head for the toilet(head) to set them free. Nap time, awakened by 10:30 as we pass the Gulf Stream, and rows of weedline: time to fish! I set out two rods, with lots of advise, and Alma and Max join me on the stern to watch the clear blue water and sky, and the clean horizon.
Coldcuts for lunch,Rock's famous sandwiches piled high.
Hoping for gourmet fish dinner, but no luck. Chili on the stove, cornbread scrapped fearing it will slosh about too much in the oven.
A nearly full moon rises on the port, as the sun setsin a flash on the starboard. The stars are amazing, the Big Dipper looks like it will scrape the flybridge.
7:30 pm, the engine dies a sputtering death, all hands to the engine room, racor filters changed, ATF poured in, but its gone dry and Dave bleeds each injector as we drift calmly with a roll here and there. Lots of muttering going on , as the complexities of the fuel pumping system are discussed with no real outcome other than the engine finally starting and we are back on course.
4 am ship passed port side , looked like a football stadium with a single light bulb hanging at either end...hard to see red/green light, I panic as two miles on radar looks like it is bearing down on us.
March 9 Monday:
12 midnight,Engine room alarm goes off, smoke billows from engine room, belts are smoking, Dave greases them, worries this will continue. I also worry thoughout my watch keeping close eye on the temps. By 7 am the noise from the belts revs up, Dave and Rock go below and eventually belts are cut, leaving us without hydrolic power to the windlass and bow thruster, neither will affect out passage at this point. Eggs,sausage,toast for the boys, nice to be able to cook.
Continue to be skunked by the schools of fish down there.Hot dogs for lunch(more PB&J for me), Lamb and eggplant pastitio for dinner. Dave doesn't eat lamb(only Yankees do!) but it is eaten and will fullfill the requirement, delicious to us.
Find baby sparrow on deck, amazing!! Where did it come from, how did a baby land bird get way out here? Dave warns it will not live. I put bread and fresh water out, know it will ride to Luperon with us. Max intent on following it as it hops and flies around the boat.
We are in the Bermuda Triangle, and approaching the Sargasso Sea. Course steady, porpoises , small and frisky seen off the bow.
Here are my journal summaries of our trip from Georgetown, SC directly to Luperon, Domincan Republic.
Saturday March 7, 2009.
8:05 am
tearful goodbyes to our dear friends, I can't believe we are really leaving. Half of me wonders if we will limp back in afew hours with something needing Jamie's magic powers.
We cruise out the Sampit River uneventfully, I take afew half hearted pictures, and there as we enter Winyah Bay are friends at the very point of East Bay Park waving and taking pictures, how wonderful ! Goodbye Georgetown, I have my top ten things I love and hate about you, but thats another entry...
Its now just Rock, our close friend Dave signed on for the adventure, Max and Alma the clueless SWDs, and me aboard Magpie, 44 feet of power in motion. And motion it is as we enter the channel between jettys and on to the ocean and the groundswell that rocks us on our course due east,southeast at 146 degrees.
We dined on eggsalad sandwiches, as we pass the seabuoy, having skipped breakfast to finish tying down stuff, getting last minute things stowed.... We are joined by a parade of porpoises, and seagulls.
Last look at land, and its time for my nap. Once awake, I notice more motion, and stuff beach towels in all cabinets and the pantry shelves to keep the clatter down. Outriggers are out to decrease the motion.Max and Alma are low to the ground, like big fuzzy throw rugs scooting around the cabin. I take them on the bow with leashes, but they are happy to return to the salon, and stay flat.Max throws up, no kibble today.I am queasy, the boys are ready for dinner. I bake a 'Mrs Budds chicken pie' to rave reviews, preferring to go back below to tune out the noise of things continuing to move and settle,rock and roll.
12 midnight, I hear a terrible thumping at the stern, Rock on watch and we go out, dogs creeping low behind us. It takes a minute or two, but Rock discovers the Danforth anchor, once secured to the stern has come partially loose and is banging away, Rock out on the swim platform but cannot secure. I wake Dave, but we are unable to pull it up or get it back into its holdings and Rock lets it go. I feel sad for it, as Jamie repaired it, and I had painted it, and it just disappeared.
4am: my watch starts, and being the one who remembered daylight savings my shift is three hours instead of 4. I am less queasy, and note that there is barely a serving of Mrs Budd's left in the pan, no thanks I just ate a bar of soap. I mark a ships passage on radar, big and not many lights, the distances look less than they are and I worry needlessly. The engine room is hot,hot, hot, gauges checked, listen for odd sounds, smells...back out of the sauna.
March 8, Sunday
after 8 am:Its raisin bran, and coffee for breakfast for Dave. and Rock happily finishes off Mrs Budd's chicken pie. Hope my homemade meals come close to Mrs Budd's comfort food. I try out PB&J on saltines, not bad. I take my vitamins and head for the toilet(head) to set them free. Nap time, awakened by 10:30 as we pass the Gulf Stream, and rows of weedline: time to fish! I set out two rods, with lots of advise, and Alma and Max join me on the stern to watch the clear blue water and sky, and the clean horizon.
Coldcuts for lunch,Rock's famous sandwiches piled high.
Hoping for gourmet fish dinner, but no luck. Chili on the stove, cornbread scrapped fearing it will slosh about too much in the oven.
A nearly full moon rises on the port, as the sun setsin a flash on the starboard. The stars are amazing, the Big Dipper looks like it will scrape the flybridge.
7:30 pm, the engine dies a sputtering death, all hands to the engine room, racor filters changed, ATF poured in, but its gone dry and Dave bleeds each injector as we drift calmly with a roll here and there. Lots of muttering going on , as the complexities of the fuel pumping system are discussed with no real outcome other than the engine finally starting and we are back on course.
4 am ship passed port side , looked like a football stadium with a single light bulb hanging at either end...hard to see red/green light, I panic as two miles on radar looks like it is bearing down on us.
March 9 Monday:
12 midnight,Engine room alarm goes off, smoke billows from engine room, belts are smoking, Dave greases them, worries this will continue. I also worry thoughout my watch keeping close eye on the temps. By 7 am the noise from the belts revs up, Dave and Rock go below and eventually belts are cut, leaving us without hydrolic power to the windlass and bow thruster, neither will affect out passage at this point. Eggs,sausage,toast for the boys, nice to be able to cook.
Continue to be skunked by the schools of fish down there.Hot dogs for lunch(more PB&J for me), Lamb and eggplant pastitio for dinner. Dave doesn't eat lamb(only Yankees do!) but it is eaten and will fullfill the requirement, delicious to us.
Find baby sparrow on deck, amazing!! Where did it come from, how did a baby land bird get way out here? Dave warns it will not live. I put bread and fresh water out, know it will ride to Luperon with us. Max intent on following it as it hops and flies around the boat.
We are in the Bermuda Triangle, and approaching the Sargasso Sea. Course steady, porpoises , small and frisky seen off the bow.
Tuesday, March 17, 2009
Happy Saint Paddys Day from the Kelly-Pompans
well, we finally made it to Shaggy's after the wonderful Lynne brought us to the dock at Luperon Yacht Club on 3/14/09....when we limped in from our 6+ day passage from georgetown, SC. We were promised a free rum drink so here we are and I am staring at the green balloons and wondering the significance...while D. is reading his first newspaper in 7 days we looked at the date and OMG, its St Paddys! So, big surprise we made it here in one piece and although we did not know we "limped in" we had a sizeable list to port which we were able to correct today with a 400 gallon fuel addition. We looked pretty pathetic until this afternoon, and it was alittle inconvenient to work around....More to follow about our 7 days at sea, and this will have to be a fluid timetable as I get used to the Dominican Way.Pictures also to follow. Thanks for your patience!!!!
Wednesday, March 4, 2009
going,going, go later
well, preparations made and all last minute details being attended to, we opted to purchase an extended forecast(mostly because I am remiss in SSB operation...sure looks like a CB to me!!!) and today by noon we have opted to be prudent and delay our departure from tomorrow until Saturday morning to avoid an occluded low and hopefully some unpleasant weather two days out. Hope the next weather report on Friday will not have changed. I am ready to go! Our crew has dropped by one, Eric Dobbyn, has opted to be gainfully employed and we wish him a future visit on Magpie. Dave Mason arrived on schedule Tuesday evening and worked well into late Wednesday before driving home to his wonderful wife Charleen, until Fridays return. We got most everything completed, and with the extra two days I will hopefully be able to buy a new washer as ours died two days ago(well just the motherboard....) and power wash the engine room after Daves help there(no really, thanks!!!) Some netting needs to be put up to keep the barking sheep from sliding off the stern in rough weather , and securing all that might turn into a lethal projectile is the ongoing task. And the trip to the laundrymat to ensure that we leave with something clean to wear. The fishing belts arrived today and despite Dave's assertion we will not stop to fish, I am hopeful that the Gulf Stream will change his mind. We have a huge cooler on the stern that will be full of Bucky's Big Tuna ice in preparation of mahi-mahi, tuna, fishfishfish.....
So early to bed and tomorrow will be another big day of goodbyes in Georgetown, and great adventures ahead.
So early to bed and tomorrow will be another big day of goodbyes in Georgetown, and great adventures ahead.
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